Big Flamingo Gun 9000
To make your Flamingo Gun working, you have to go through two phases: - Hardware: assemble the hardware (soldering). - Software: flash the firmware (embedded software) to the LANA module on your Flamingo Gun.
The Hardware assembly process is laid out on this page. For the software, check out this page.
HARDWARE
Features
The flamingo blaster is built around basic components:
- an IR LED
- 2 IR receivers
- 4 WS2812 LEDs
- RISC-V based microcontroller board LANA TNY
Step by step assembly guide
All components neatly packaged
The package you received has everything you need to build your own flamingo blaster.
- 1 IR LED
- 1 team selector switch
- 1 large blue capacitor
- 1 buzzer
- 1 trigger pushbutton
- 1 long strip of pin headers (to be split in half)
- 1 single pin header
- 1 MOSFET
- 1 LANA TNY
- 1 pink PCB
- 1 badge link cable
- 2 IR receivers
- 2 resistors
- 2 badge link connectors
- 3 yellow capacitors (100nF)
- 4 WS2812 LEDs
Start soldering
There is no bad order in which to solder the parts, we dop however suggest starting with the lowest profile parts first.
Resistors
The package contains a larger 33R resistor and a smaller 1k resistor.
Team switch and speaker
The next components with a low profile are the buzzer buzzer (no polarity) and the team switch. Mount the switch with the actuator facing away from the PCB.
IR LED
The infrared LED does have a polarity. Mounting it the wrong way around results in a non-functional blaster. The long lead of the LED should go in the square hole with the +
symbol next to it. Make sure you leave some room in order to bend te LED forward (or even better, bend it before soldering it!)
IR receivers
The 2 IR receivers mount directions are indicated by an arrow. This arrow points towards the direction the pins should go.
RGB LEDs
The RGB LEDs have 4 leads, the longest lead should go in the hole marked with the letter c
. Once inserted, bend the LED before soldering. This allows you to slightly adjust the alignment before fixing them in place.
Trigger button
If you're right handed, solder the trigger switch on the side with all the other components.
LANA TNY module
Use the large and single pin header to solder the LANA TNY module. Break the long pin header in 2 for the sides. Place the pins in the flamingo and align the LANA module on top of it. Alternate soldering the pins to prevent the pin header melting.
Condesators
The large blue condesator, just as the IR LED, has a long lead indicating the anode of this part. This longer lead should go in the hole marked with the +
pin.
The smaller yellow condensators can be mounted either way.
Badge link connector
Last part is the badge link connector. This 3.5mm audio jack is soldered on the same side as all the other components
Finished blaster
If everything goes according to plan you should now have a functional blaster.
Mount the connector on your badge
Now all that is left to do is adding the badge link connector to your badge. Mount this connector on the back side of badge (the same side as the wireless module and battery).
Make sure there is no short circuit between the single pin and the decorative design on the badge!
Notes
Hardware design files and Firmware sources can be found in the GitHub repository.
SOFTWARE (FIRMWARE)
Normally, the firmware on your LANA module is already pre-flashed. If it doesn't work: the firmware can be flashed through the badge flash station
in the solder area.
If you want to update the firmware, or you want to flash your own, you can do so with your own laptop as shown on this page.